AO Smith water heaters

Your search results for plumbers located in San Jose, CA.

Water Clarity Plumbing Nick Satalino 390 Floyd Street San Jose, CA 95110 408-275-9300 www.waterclarityplumbing.com
South Valley Plumbing Tom Fortin 3591 Charter Park Drive San Jose, CA 95136 408-265-5556 www.972leak.com
Affordable Plumbing Solutions Richard Elisary 117 Bernal Road #70-172 San Jose, CA 95119 408-972-5325 mailto:service@affordableplumbingsolutions.netwww.972leak.com
Heritage Plumbing & Heating Jim Nachtigal 6140 Geronimo Dr San Jose, CA 95123 408-592-0452 mailto:heritage2@comcast.netHeritageHeatAndAir.Com
AAA Mike Counsil Plumbing, Inc. Angelo Segretto 1915 O'Toole Way San Jose, CA 95131 408-272-4900 mailto:askmike@mcplumbing.comhttp://www.mcplumbing.com
Great Western Plumbing Charles Herring 6017 Snell Ave #336 San Jose, CA 95123 408-241-8084 mailto:TraderC@dslextreme.com
Plumbwerx Plumbing Theodore Amor 761 Mabury Rd, Suite 40 San Jose, CA 95133 408-441-0307 mailto:info@plumbwerx.comwww.plumbwerx.com
Falcone Plumbing & Heating, Inc. Mike Falcone 650 Lincoln Ave. #B San Jose, CA 95126 408-292-9705 mailto:Mike@callfalcone.comcallfalcone.com

http://www.hotwater.com/sales/pca.aspx


http://www.972leak.com/SpecialOffers.html $50 off

Staining the deck

Dethatching the lawn

Borrowed the tow-behind dethatcher from David. Dragged behind the Craftsman mower in 2 directions all Sunday afternoon. Held down by a 70# bag of sand. It left a covering of white fluff everywhere. Now the problem is raking it up.

Started in front with a large box. Trying to irrigate a little to ease the trauma. Still 80F days, but windless. Relatively mild weather.

Later thought of using a blue tarp instead of box.

Disposing in a pile in the back. Huge piles. Perhaps I will put some out for yard waste pickup every week to get rid of it. Would attract bunnies to nest in it.

Raking is tiring. So used the mower to try to windrow the thatch, before raking and collecting on the blue tarp. Took from 6-8:30pm one night. Ending up in darkness.

I will probably run the mower this weekend, and bag to pick up stray thatch left on the lawn.
And get a couple bags of winterizing fertilizer.

Reseeding dead spots near driveway and street front. I've suspected these are thatch related.


I got a $5 garden rake from Menard's to hand thin certain spots. I could grind the tines sharper.

I also bought a $12 dethatch blade for the mower (Arnold universal 16 in). Just in case I couldn't borrow David's implement. Haven't tried it. People say it can be brutal. Both hard on the mower and on the lawn. Some call it scarification. depends how low you set it. You're supposed to cut the lawn short first, before dethatching. And if you dethatch every year or every other year, it won't be so overwhelming or traumatic to the lawn.

Gray epoxy floor paint

Basement floor still yucky from the flood. Rust stains where paint cans sat. and then paint peeled in places. Have to touch it up.

I opened a can up, and put some on my car's wheel where the finish peeled off. The gray kind of matched color.

Nice: water clean up.

Used Barkeeper's Friend to remove rust stains. oxalic acid. Really works, you still have to rub a bit.

Once I touch up the basement floor, there are some sections that weren't painted. Like under a shelving. That will make it look more complete.

Appliance parts and Free repair tips

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Rekeying Weiser deadbolts

a really good feature of the weiser deadbolt is that it has a grade one rating. schlage only has a grade one rating in the primus keyway B500 series. the primus keyway is restricted. only certain franchised locksmiths can cut keys for it. a grade one rating means the deadbolt has certain superiority in things like being able to stand up to various physical attacks. go to weiser.com and read up on the weiser before you make a decision to replace it with another deadbolt. check out some independent reviews of the weiser. http://en.allexperts.com/q/Locksmithing-3110/2008/9/Handleset-Rekeying-1.htm

replacing the weiser deadbolt with another weiser deadbolt would probably cost about $50 and a rekey for it would probably run about $20.
i am not familiar with the quality of the weiser deadbolt so i cannot advise you as to how secure it may be. schlage is pretty high quality. medeco is high security but the can be expensive. i would judge a kwikset to be medium security. you can get a low end schlage for about $30.

AOS water heater FGR-50 224

180193-4
9003739105 $129 weddleplumbing


IL

?electronic vs mercury
wires

manual

http://jmtparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45&products_id=234&osCsid=ej9525sjt9qq3h5dh4ivu93gc2

WHITE RODGERS Water Heater Control 37C73U 255 180193-4[37C73U 255]
$37.49

New in Box A.O. Smith Master Fit Water Heater Control 180193-4 White Rodgers 37C73U-255 Info: For Natural Gas only Nat. Reg. 3.5" Max. Pressure 1/2 psi


http://www.macdonaldsupply.com/default.aspx?page=item%20detail&itemcode=AOS+180193-4*

AOS 180193-4*
Description:
THERMOSTAT NAT GAS-WATER HEATER
Price:
$47.57

It's April--where are we now?

The remodeling company is done with the drywall, painting, doors, and cabinets. From the beginning of the year until now. Carpet needs to be installed. and then to check if the mortgage company wants to send an inspector.

Then to finish cleanup of the unfinished side. To arrange the storage. and then to move stuff back down to the basement. Settle back in.

MS Virtual Earth

Click on a photo to see a blowup of it.

Sump Pump Gotcha--Water Softener Salt Discharge Corrosion Problem

Check if your water softener discharges to your sump pit. If so, then the salt will accelerate corrosion of your sump pump. Especially if it is cast iron or stainless. I don't know about all plastic.

I just put in a fancy Blue Angel, and they said salt from water softeners voids the warranty. Most sump pumps have warnings about water softener brine corrosion.

Also some municipalities don't want water softener discharge to sewer. And the salt can damage your lawn or plants. So it should discharge to storm drain if possible.

Plumber came back and exchanged sump pumps. Put in a Zoeller. I think I will recharge the softener manually myself, and make sure I flush the pit with water after it's all done, esp. in summer when there is little ground water.

Carpet

sample sent to ITEL http://www.itelinc.com/

Adjuster's estimate for replacing carpet looks minuscule.
Carpet Weaver guy told us the same story; he has to fight with State Farm all the time, and often doesn't win.

Drywall-insulation work

Removing the lower 2 ft of drywall and insulation to avoid mold issues.

The previous owner did this basement finishing himself and the drywall mudding was terrible. There were bulges over studs. Also the electric boxes were all floppy.

So with the drywall removed, I tried to stabilize the electric boxes. A switch to a light that wasn't working--I found a wire had broken off, and fixed that.

We had to pay extra for them to smooth out the drywall above the 2 foot level.

Painting the areas mudded over paint produced a little pocking. The just sanded and repainted over that.

So we changed the color from a blue to a light yellow (off white) which makes the room brighter, appear larger, and hides imperfections in the drywall better maybe.

Carpet will be light blue.

Electric boxes that don't come out level with the drywall--you can buy these plastic spacer things to bring the outlets out. to help the covers fit and look better.

Contents

ACV, RCV, and Depreciation

ACV-actual cash value is what it would cost to replace it today minus depreciation based on how many years you had it.

They write you a check for ACV. If your policy covers replacement value, when you buy a new one, they pay the difference (the depreciation). If you don't buy a new one, that's it.

State Farm gives us 2 years to claim contents.



Buy a new treadmill.

An antique table was standing in the water and all the feet split.
We took it to an antique woodshop guy. He said it wasn't cost effective to fix.
SF asked for a professional to document what replacement cost might be. and sent us a check for that amount.

Phase 2 The Adjuster

So the adjuster finally comes after more than 2 weeks. Drying has been complete. The adjuster inspects for an hour or so. Then goes off for 2-3 hours to complete a report. Comes back with the report and writes a check on the spot.

Gotcha #1: If the amount is >$7500 the check is made out to the Mortgage company as well.

What does this mean?
When you dig into this, each mortgage company has different rules.

Our mortgage is with CitiMortgage. You hunt and hunt on their website, try some phone numbers and get a call center in India. They give you a web address of http://www.mylossdraft.com/ with a pin of cm001. If you put in ch001, you get Chase mortgage.

According to the mylossdraft website, for CitiMortgage--if the amt is <$10K, send them the check (do not endorse it), and they will endorse and send it back. If the amt is >$10K, you endorse the check and send it to them. They put it into escrow.

You send them a whole list of documents:

Your current mailing address and phone number, and loan number.
[Loss Summary Worksheet] (Required only when contractor is being used for repairs.)
List of repairs from Insurance Company (Adjustor's Worksheet)
A signed copy of the Contractor's Contract
Paid Receipts, required only when the Homeowner is making the repairs
[Statement Of Self Contracting] (Required only when Homeowner is making the repairs)
[Conditional Waiver of Lien]
[Certificate of Intent to Repair]
[Certificate of Completion of Repairs] (To be signed only when repairs have been completed)

Then they send you 1/3 or 1/2 the money.
When the work is about complete, the MortgageCompany will send out an inspector to verify, before sending the rest of the money.

So why do they do it this way? Something about the mortgage company having an interest in the property being fixed properly. If the work is not done and verified, you don't get any money. If your contractor does it for a lesser amt, escrow will only pay that amount. If your contractor estimates it costs more, you go back to the adjuster to negotiate.

Flooded Basement sump pump failure

12 inches of water snuffs the furnace and water heater end of December.
Luckily no blizzard or extreme cold.

Due to a 1 day storm through the entire midwest that melted snow and dumped several inches of rain.

http://www.crh.noaa.gov/lsx/?n=12_27_08
27 December 2008: Severe Weather and Flooding Event
SIX TORNADOES OCCURRED OVER PARTS OF EASTERN MISSOURI AND WEST CENTRAL ILLINOIS LATE SATURDAY MORNING OF DECEMBER 27 2008

http://www.pantagraph.com/articles/2008/12/27/news/doc495640ff2c2af572598254.txt
Central Illinois received a reprieve from ice long enough for severe thunderstorms to pummel the area Saturday afternoon, damaging buildings and trees, knocking out power and toppling semitrailer trucks on interstates. About 2 inches of rain fell in the storm that packed winds of up to 65 mph to 70 mph in some parts of Central Illinois, said Patrick Bak, a meteorologist at the National Weather Service in Lincoln. The rain on top of melting ice and saturated or still-frozen ground Saturday left Central Illinois watching for flooding, especially along the Mackinaw River at Congerville and the Vermilion River at Pontiac.

What do you do with a foot of ice cold water in the basement and all your stuff floating around like the Titanic going down? And you're afraid to turn on lights because it might electrocute you.

I look in the yellow pages, and call the 24/7 number for Peerless. They say nothing they can do on a Sunday night. Plus, you got to get the water pumped out before they start. That means an electrician and a plumber. Bummer. I had shutoff the water and drained the pipes before going on vacation. How to turn the water back on? Water's really cold for wading, and not sure if there are outlets under water. No longer have fishing waders.

I grab two 5 gallon buckets, using trash bags->double bag my legs, and try walking in the buckets. Too much buoyancy, need some ballast. Wade over in the dark to turn on the water and kill the breakers to the basement.

Go to bed in a cold, silent house. Electric blanket works. Microwave works.

--------------------

Next day, go to Menards and try to rig up a sump pump to pump out of the basement window. Pumping 1 inch takes around 20 minutes. Going to take all day. Plumber comes in the afternoon. Peerless won't come until the sump pump is working again. Leave the pump running unattended over lunch.

By afternoon, finally get down to around 2 inches. Sump pump can't suck that low, and is overheating unless I cool it manually with a bucket. Found some rubber boots to walk around in--much better than the buckets. Binder's plumbing replaces the sump pump and cleans up the water heater and gets it to fire up. Halelujah--hot water tonight, at least.

Furnace guy won't come out until I blow air on the circuit board on the blower for 8-10 hours overnight. If it's wet, it will just fry.

Peerless guys come Monday evening, start extracting water from the carpet.

Still no heat that night. I ignite the gas log fireplace with forced air blower, and turn on ceiling fan. Temp rises from 48 to the 50's. Better than nuthin. Gas fireplace is a good backup heating system.
------------

Tuesday, Air King furnace guy comes out. Puts power to the furnace, board is fried. He has to go back to get a board, and then install it. Furnace is running again. It will run continuously all day and night to warm the house back up. Peerless guys warn that if the pipes froze, it might start leaking after the house warms back up. and they hate when it refloods, once they start the drying out process. Sump pump is starting to take breaks.

Start hauling out wet cardboard and stuff. Make a pile outside in the driveway.

Peerless guys say carpet is ruined, they want to haul it out. Carpet dumping involves a hefty dump fee. They had to pretty much dry the carpet before dragging it out of the basement because of weight and dripping.

Cannot remove baseboards until the drywall firms up. In after thought, it would probably behoove the insurance company to approve tearing out the lower part of the drywall to speed up drying. 19 blowers, 2 dehumidifiers, and 1 hepa air filter cost almost $800/day to rent. Opening up the lower part of the wall would definitely speed up drying if the insulation got wet.

In the meantime, I keep pushing water into the sump hole with a squeegee. In after thought, I should have used a big shop vac to suck up the puddles. That would have dropped the humidity and sped up the drying process.

Tuesday had mild temperatures, so we opened up the upstairs windows to ventilate some.

Wednesday, 19 turbo fans running in the basement. Sounds like jet plane taking off.

House ducting is like a speaker system, you can hear it from the 2nd floor. Hard to sleep with that din. Sounds like water downpour, or a waterfall.

Name of the game is to dry the drywall and insulation, studs, furniture, etc. before mold sets up.

Treadmill was under water. Books and personal papers. Not tax returns.

House is warmed up. Kick it up towards 80F to help evaporate water. Trim the vents to direct most of the heat toward the basement and not so much upstairs.

Wednesday was frigid, and moisture was condensing on all the upstairs windows. I fired up a dehumidifier on the 2nd floor, and ran it in continuous mode, pulling a couple of gallons out of the air.

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Thursday, basement is really warm. Move wine bottles and some food stuff to the cooler area like the garage.

State Farm says they are swamped with claims from that storm and don't know when they can get an adjuster out. It will be a catastrophic claim, not an individual homeowners claim.
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I pry off all the baseboards.

Pressboard veneered cabinets cannot be dried, because the veneer doesn't allow water out.

Any place with a double layer of wood/drywall traps moisture and can grow mold. Open those up or drill holes through it.